Burst pipes in lakefront homesand why the source needs proving

HistoryLink describes a shoreline first platted into summer-home tracts, then divided into small lots, with small homes and cabins replaced over time by larger year-round houses. Not every old structure was removed. Where a home grew in stages, its plumbing grew too. A supply line may run under an addition, through what used to be an outside wall or across a section of crawlspace that was never insulated well, because that part of the house was once used only in summer.

These are the runs most exposed in a hard freeze, and older sections can include fittings from several different periods. A pipe that has been fine for years can fail during an unusual cold spell, and a joint that was disturbed in the last remodel can fail with no weather involved at all. Boathouses, outdoor showers and lake-side hose bibs add further exposed lines, and they tend to be the ones forgotten in autumn.

If you close up a lakefront home for part of the winter, turn off the water at the main, and think about draining the exposed lines. A second home is exactly where a small failure can go unnoticed for weeks. For what to do in the first minutes, see our main burst pipe water damage page.

The difference between a pipe leak and lake water has real consequences. Washington's Insurance Commissioner says a typical home policy does not cover flooding, and that you would need a separate flood policy for it. ^[2] A sudden pipe break is usually a question for the home policy, under its terms. In a wet December, an adjuster may reasonably wonder which one you are dealing with, particularly in a mapped flood hazard area.

Evidence you gather straight away is useful here. Photograph the failed fitting in place if you can, and keep it in a labelled bag. Take a photograph of your water meter before and after you close the main valve. Note what the lake was doing, and take a picture of it. Ask your plumber to write down what failed and why. If you do have both kinds of water at the same time, say so. It is better to describe the facts as they are, and let the insurer respond to them.

Sometimes a pipe fails while the lake is also high. Then the rooms can be dried in the usual way, but the crawlspace below may stay damp from the ground. Keep the job in two parts and ask for readings that show the difference: wet framing right under the failed pipe, and general dampness from the soil. It helps the contractor plan and it helps your insurer understand what was caused by what. The EPA advises drying wet materials within 24 to 48 hours where you can, and clean pipe water is the easiest kind to deal with early, so do not wait for the lake before you start the indoor work. ^[5]

Damp air close to the lake also slows drying in winter, so a closed house with a dehumidifier running usually beats open windows. Published Everett normals show about 5.8 inches of precipitation in November, so plan on damp air for much of the season. Keep the heat on, too. A cold house dries slowly, and a second pipe could freeze.

A plumber can tell you if the repair needs a plumbing permit. The Lake Stevens permit center takes plumbing applications online, and a registered contractor, the owner or the owner's agent can apply. Electrical permits come from Washington Labor & Industries instead. If you are replacing long runs under an addition, ask whether the new lines can be routed somewhere warmer and more accessible. Older shoreline houses are also places to ask about asbestos or lead before walls are opened. Check any contractor's registration on the Washington L&I Verify tool. ^[8] It only takes a few minutes, even in a hurry.